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Pro Tips: How To Turn A Freezer Into A Fridge Yourself
Can you turn a freezer into a fridge? Yes, you absolutely can! You just need to add a special temperature controller. This controller plugs into the wall. Your freezer then plugs into the controller. The controller acts like a smart switch. It tells the freezer to cool down only when the inside gets warmer than fridge temperature. This is the core idea behind using an external thermostat freezer fridge setup. It’s a popular DIY freezer fridge project. It’s also a great way to get extra cold storage for drinks or food.
Why Convert a Freezer?
People turn freezers into fridges for good reasons. One big reason is saving energy. Chest freezers, especially older ones, often have thick walls. This makes them very good at staying cold. When you use a deep freezer as a fridge, it doesn’t need to run its motor as much. It only runs when the temperature goes up a little. This uses much less power than keeping it at freezer temperatures all the time.
Buying a new fridge can cost a lot. Converting an old freezer can be much cheaper. You might already have a freezer you don’t need for freezing anymore. Or you might find a used one for a low price.
It gives you extra space for drinks for parties. Or it can hold extra food items that need to be kept cold but not frozen. It’s also a way to give an older appliance a new life. This helps the environment by not throwing it away.
So, you can convert chest freezer to refrigerator. You can also do an upright freezer to fridge conversion. Both work well using the same basic method.
How It Works: The Simple Idea
Freezers keep food very, very cold. Think below 0°F (-18°C). Fridges keep food cool, usually between 35°F and 40°F (about 1.7°C to 4.4°C).
A freezer is built to reach super-low temperatures. Its cooling system is strong. But it doesn’t have a built-in way to stay at fridge temperatures. Its own thermostat is made for freezing.
To turn it into a fridge, you need to control when the freezer’s cooling system turns on. You want it to turn on only when the temperature gets above, say, 40°F. And turn off when it drops to, say, 36°F.
This is where the external temperature controller comes in. You don’t change anything inside the freezer itself. You just control the power going to it from the wall. The controller has a temperature sensor you put inside the freezer. It watches the temperature.
When the temperature gets too warm for a fridge, the controller lets power flow to the freezer. The freezer starts to cool. When the temperature gets cool enough, the controller cuts the power. The freezer stops cooling. This cycle keeps the temperature in the fridge range. This is how a freezer conversion thermostat works.
This setup is often called an external thermostat freezer fridge. It’s a simple but smart way to use the freezer’s cooling power differently. It makes the freezer behave like a fridge.
Gathering Your Tools and Parts
To do this project, you need a few things. None of them are hard to find.
The Freezer
You need a working freezer. This can be a chest freezer or an upright freezer. Both can be converted. Make sure it works well as a freezer before you start. If it can’t reach freezing temps, it won’t work as a fridge either.
The Temperature Controller
This is the most important part. You need a temperature controller for freezer conversion. This device does the job of sensing the temperature and controlling the power. Many types exist. A popular and cheap one is the STC-1000 freezer fridge controller. Others include Inkbird models.
These controllers have:
* A display to show the temperature.
* Buttons to set the temperature you want.
* A temperature sensor probe.
* Terminals or sockets to connect the power cord and the freezer.
Some temperature controllers come pre-wired. They might have a plug on one end to go into the wall. They will have a socket on the other end to plug the freezer into. These are part of what might be called a freezer to fridge conversion kit. They make the wiring step much easier.
Power Cord
If your controller doesn’t have a plug and socket built-in, you’ll need a power cord. You will connect the controller to the wall using this cord. You might also need a socket or junction box to wire the freezer’s plug into the controller’s output.
Basic Tools
You will need some simple tools:
* Screwdrivers (Philips and flathead).
* Wire strippers (if wiring yourself).
* Electrical tape.
* Maybe a drill (to make a small hole for the sensor wire, though you can often route it through the door seal).
* Zip ties or tape to secure the sensor wire.
Having the right parts makes the how to make a freezer a refrigerator project much smoother.
Choosing the Right Temperature Controller
Picking the right temperature controller is key to your freezer conversion. This device is the brains of the operation. It tells the freezer when to cool.
Types of Controllers
There are many models. Some are very basic. Some have more features.
* STC-1000: This is a very common and low-cost option. It’s reliable for this job. It can control heating or cooling, which is perfect for a freezer (cooling).
* Inkbird Controllers: Inkbird makes several models suitable for this. They often come pre-wired with plugs and sockets, making them very easy to use for a DIY freezer fridge project.
* Other Brands: Many other companies make similar digital temperature controllers.
Features to Look For
When choosing a temperature controller for freezer conversion, check these things:
* Temperature Range: Make sure it can control temperatures in the fridge range (35°F to 40°F). Most controllers made for brewing or reptile tanks work fine.
* Accuracy: How close does it keep the temperature to your setting? Most digital controllers are accurate enough for a fridge.
* Power Rating: Make sure the controller can handle the amount of power your freezer uses. Freezers use a lot of power when the compressor starts. Look at the power draw (amps) of your freezer and make sure the controller can handle it. It’s usually listed on a sticker inside the freezer or on the back.
* Display: A clear digital display makes it easy to see the temperature and change settings.
* Ease of Use: How easy is it to set the desired temperature and other settings? Some have simple buttons, others are more complex. The STC-1000 is known for being pretty easy once you learn the button presses.
* Sensor Probe: Is the sensor probe long enough to reach into the freezer from where you plan to put the controller?
Details on the STC-1000 Freezer Fridge Controller
The STC-1000 is very popular for this DIY freezer fridge project. Here’s how it typically works and what to expect:
* It usually requires wiring. You’ll need to connect a power cord to its input terminals. You’ll connect an outlet or the freezer’s cord to its output terminals.
* It has four main settings you can change using the buttons (often labeled S, Up, Down).
* F1: Temperature Set Point: This is the temperature you want to reach (e.g., 38°F or 3°C).
* F2: Difference Set Point (Hysteresis): This sets how much the temperature can change before the cooling turns back on. If F1 is 38°F and F2 is 2°F, the cooling turns off at 38°F and turns back on when it reaches 38°F + 2°F = 40°F.
* F3: Compressor Delay: This setting waits a few minutes (e.g., 3 minutes) before turning the compressor back on after it just turned off. This protects the compressor from trying to start too soon, which can damage it.
* F4: Temperature Calibration: Allows you to adjust the temperature reading if your sensor seems off compared to another thermometer.
Understanding these settings is key to using the STC-1000 freezer fridge controller effectively. It’s a robust freezer conversion thermostat.
For those who don’t want to deal with wiring, look for controllers that come pre-wired with plugs and sockets. These are often advertised as plug-and-play external thermostat freezer fridge units. They are ideal for using a deep freezer as a fridge without electrical work.
Safety First!
Working with electricity needs care. Always unplug the freezer before you do any wiring. Make sure the power cord is not connected to the wall outlet.
If you are not comfortable with basic wiring, buy a pre-wired temperature controller. Or ask someone who knows about electricity to help you. Using electrical tape and making sure all connections are secure is important. Keep the controller away from water.
This DIY freezer fridge project is safe if you take the right steps. Unplugging first is the most important safety rule.
Step-by-Step Guide: The DIY Freezer Fridge Project
Here are the steps for how to make a freezer a refrigerator using an external controller.
Step 1: Unplug the Freezer
Make sure the freezer is unplugged from the wall. Check it twice!
Step 2: Get the Freezer Ready
Empty the freezer. Clean it well. Ice build-up needs to be removed. Let the inside reach room temperature and dry out. This makes it easier to place the sensor. It also helps the temperature stabilize faster when you test it.
Step 3: Place the Temperature Sensor Inside
Your temperature controller has a sensor probe on a wire. This probe needs to go inside the freezer. It measures the air temperature.
* Placement: Put the sensor probe where it can measure the air temperature accurately. Avoid putting it right against a cold wall or floor. Don’t put it where food will directly touch it later. Hanging it in the middle, maybe taped to a shelf or the wall (not touching the cooling coils), is best.
* Routing the Wire: You need to get the sensor wire from inside the freezer to the outside where the controller will be.
* Option A (Easy): Run the thin wire out through the door seal. Find a spot where the seal is a bit flexible. Gently close the door on the wire. The seal is usually soft enough that it won’t damage the wire or break the seal too much. This is often the best way for a chest freezer to refrigerator conversion or upright freezer conversion.
* Option B (Requires Drilling): Drill a small hole through the freezer wall. This is more work. You need to be careful not to hit any cooling lines inside the wall. Once the wire is through, seal the hole with silicone caulk to keep air out. Option A is generally preferred for how to make a freezer a refrigerator simply.
Secure the sensor probe inside so it won’t move. Tape or a clip works.
Step 4: Wire the Temperature Controller
- If using a pre-wired controller (recommended): This is easy. Just plug the controller’s cord into the wall outlet. Then, plug the freezer’s cord into the socket on the controller. You’re done with wiring! This is how a freezer to fridge conversion kit often works.
- If wiring a controller like the STC-1000 yourself: This step needs care. Refer to the diagram that came with your controller.
- You’ll typically connect the power cord (from the wall) to the “Input” terminals (often marked L and N for Live and Neutral).
- You’ll connect wires that go to the freezer’s power plug or a new outlet to the “Output” terminals (often marked Cool L and Cool N). The controller acts as a switch on the Live (L) wire. When it’s cooling, it connects the input Live to the output Live. The Neutral (N) wire usually passes straight through.
- Connect the sensor probe wires to the sensor terminals.
- Double-check all connections. Use electrical tape on any exposed wires or screw terminals to prevent shocks. If you are unsure, get help from someone experienced.
This step is the core of the freezer conversion thermostat setup.
Step 5: Set the Temperature Controller
With the controller wired and the sensor in place, you need to tell it what temperature you want.
* Turn on the controller (plug it into the wall, assuming the freezer is plugged into the controller).
* The display should show the current temperature inside the freezer (measured by the sensor).
* Refer to your controller’s manual to learn how to set:
* Desired Temperature: Set this to a standard fridge temperature, like 38°F or 3°C.
* Temperature Difference (Hysteresis): Set this to a small range, like 2°F or 1°C. This means if you set the target to 38°F and the difference to 2°F, the cooling will turn off at 38°F and on at 40°F.
* Compressor Delay: Set this to 3-5 minutes. This protects the freezer’s motor.
For the STC-1000 freezer fridge controller, you usually press ‘S’ for a few seconds to enter the settings menu (F1, F2, F3, F4). Use the Up/Down buttons to change values and ‘S’ again to save and move to the next setting.
Step 6: Plug it In and Test
Now, plug the main power cord (the one going to the controller) into the wall outlet.
* The controller display should light up and show the temperature inside the freezer.
* The controller will likely turn on the freezer’s compressor if the temperature is higher than your set point plus the difference. You should hear the freezer running.
* Wait. It will take some time for the large, well-insulated freezer to cool down to fridge temperature. This could be several hours.
* Watch the controller. See if the temperature drops. See if the controller turns the freezer off when it reaches the target temperature (F1). See if it turns back on when it rises above F1 + F2.
* Use another thermometer inside the freezer to check the temperature accuracy. Put this thermometer near the sensor probe. Compare readings. Adjust the calibration setting (F4 on STC-1000) if needed.
Let the empty freezer run for 24 hours to make sure the temperature stays stable in the desired range. This confirms your freezer conversion thermostat is working correctly.
Step 7: Load It Up
Once you are happy with the temperature stability, you can start putting items in your new fridge. Don’t fill it completely right away. Add items gradually. This helps the temperature stay stable.
This completes the basic steps for your DIY freezer fridge project.
Special Notes for Chest Freezers
Converting a chest freezer to refrigerator is often seen as the best option for energy saving.
* Insulation: Chest freezers usually have thicker insulation than upright freezers. This means they hold the cold much better. The compressor runs less often. This makes using a deep freezer as a fridge very power-efficient.
* Lid Seal: The lid of a chest freezer usually has a very good seal because gravity helps keep it closed tightly. A good seal means less cold air escapes and less warm, moist air gets in.
* Organization: The main challenge with a chest freezer used as a fridge is organizing things. It’s a deep box. Things can get lost at the bottom. You might want to buy or build baskets and shelves to make items easier to reach.
Overall, for efficiency, converting chest freezer to refrigerator is a top choice.
Special Notes for Upright Freezers
Upright freezer to fridge conversion is also possible.
* Access: Upright freezers have doors that open like a regular fridge. They usually have shelves built-in. This makes them much easier to organize and access items compared to a chest freezer.
* Insulation: They often have less insulation than chest freezers. The door seal might not be as tight. This means the compressor might need to run a bit more often to keep the temperature steady. So, an upright freezer converted to a fridge might use a little more power than a converted chest freezer of the same size.
* Seal: Check the door seal carefully. Make sure it seals well all around. A poor seal will let cold air out and warm, moist air in, increasing frost and power use.
The upright freezer to fridge conversion is great for convenience, even if slightly less energy-efficient than a chest freezer one.
Maintaining Your New Fridge
Keeping your converted freezer running well is simple.
* Monitor Temperature: Check the controller display regularly. Make sure the temperature stays in the right range. An external thermometer can also be used for a second check.
* Check the Seal: Make sure the door or lid seal is clean and closes tightly. This is especially important for using a deep freezer as a fridge or any upright conversion. A trick is to close the door/lid on a piece of paper. If you can pull the paper out easily, the seal is weak.
* Keep it Clean: Wipe up spills quickly. Clean the inside regularly with mild soap and water.
* Reduce Frost: At fridge temperatures, frost build-up is much less of a problem than in a freezer. Any frost usually comes from humid air getting in when the door or lid is open. A good seal helps prevent this. If you see frost, you can wipe it away. Major defrosting should be very rare.
Proper maintenance keeps your DIY freezer fridge project working smoothly for a long time.
Possible Challenges and Simple Fixes
Sometimes you might run into small issues. Here are a few and how to fix them.
Temperature Swings Are Too Big
- Problem: The temperature inside goes too high before cooling starts, and too low before it stops. Example: It goes up to 45°F and down to 30°F.
- Fix: Adjust the Temperature Difference (Hysteresis, F2 on STC-1000) setting on your controller. Make the difference smaller. If it was set to 5°F, try 2°F or 3°F. This tells the controller to turn on the cooling when the temperature is closer to your target. Also, check your sensor placement. Make sure it’s measuring the air temperature well away from walls or cooling plates.
Compressor Turns On and Off Too Quickly (Short Cycling)
- Problem: The freezer’s motor starts, runs for a very short time, and turns off, then starts again soon after. This is called short cycling. It can damage the compressor.
- Fix: Increase the Compressor Delay (F3 on STC-1000) setting. This tells the controller to wait a certain amount of time after the compressor turns off before it’s allowed to turn back on. Set it to at least 3 minutes, maybe 5 minutes. This gives the system time to equalize pressure, which is needed before restarting.
Too Much Moisture or Frost Builds Up
- Problem: Even at fridge temperatures, you are getting water drops or a thin layer of frost.
- Fix: This almost always means humid air is getting inside.
- Check your door/lid seal carefully. Clean it. Make sure it’s closing tightly all around.
- Make sure the sensor wire routed through the seal isn’t creating a big gap.
- Avoid leaving the door/lid open for long periods.
- Putting a container of baking soda or a moisture absorber made for fridges inside can help soak up extra humidity.
These simple checks and adjustments usually fix common issues with your freezer conversion thermostat setup.
Power Use: Freezer vs. Fridge Mode
This is a key benefit of using a deep freezer as a fridge. Freezing food requires a lot of energy. The freezer’s motor (compressor) has to work hard to pull heat out and get the inside down to below 0°F. It runs for long periods or cycles on and off frequently to keep it that cold.
When you convert it to a fridge, you are asking it to keep the temperature between 35°F and 40°F. This is much warmer than freezing. The freezer is designed to easily reach much colder temperatures. So, when it cools down to 35°F, it does so quickly.
Once it hits the low point (e.g., 36°F with a 38°F target and 2°F difference), the external thermostat freezer fridge controller turns the power off. Because the freezer has thick insulation (especially a chest freezer), it takes a long time for the temperature to rise by just a few degrees (up to 40°F).
This means the freezer’s compressor runs for much shorter times and much less often than it would if it were keeping things frozen. The actual power usage depends on the freezer model, its age, how often you open it, and the temperature in the room. But in most cases, a converted freezer uses significantly less electricity than it did as a freezer, and often less than a regular refrigerator of the same size. This makes your DIY freezer fridge project energy smart.
Is a Freezer Conversion Kit Worth It?
A freezer to fridge conversion kit usually includes the temperature controller and some form of pre-wiring. This might be the controller already wired into a box with a plug on one side and a socket on the other.
Are they worth the cost?
* Pros: They are much easier to use. There’s no need to do any electrical wiring yourself. You just plug it into the wall and plug the freezer into the kit. This lowers the risk of wiring mistakes or electrical shock if you are not skilled with wiring. It makes the DIY freezer fridge project much faster and simpler.
* Cons: They usually cost more than buying the temperature controller and wiring parts separately. You might pay a premium for the convenience.
If you are comfortable with basic electrical wiring, buying a controller like the STC-1000 and wiring it yourself can save money. If you prefer not to deal with wires at all, a pre-wired kit is definitely worth the extra cost for a safe and easy freezer conversion thermostat setup. It’s a great option for using a deep freezer as a fridge or an upright freezer as a fridge without the wiring hassle.
Interpreting the Process
It’s helpful to think about what you are actually doing. You are not changing the freezer’s cooling system. You are not messing with the refrigerant lines or the compressor itself. You are only changing how the freezer’s power is controlled.
The freezer still has the ability to get very, very cold. But the external temperature controller you added stops it from doing that. It interrupts the power supply when the temperature gets into the desired fridge range.
Imagine a light bulb that can get very bright. You are not changing the bulb itself. You are adding a dimmer switch. The bulb could be super bright, but the dimmer switch only lets enough power through to make it moderately bright.
In our case, the freezer is the powerful bulb, and the temperature controller is the smart dimmer switch. It only lets power through when the temperature is too high for a fridge. This simple concept is at the heart of how to make a freezer a refrigerator. It uses the existing hardware but applies a new rule for when it operates.
This method works because freezer components are generally built to be robust and handle cold temperatures. Running them less often at warmer temperatures doesn’t harm them. In fact, running less often might even extend the life of the compressor compared to constant freezing work. This makes a chest freezer to refrigerator or upright freezer to fridge conversion a practical and smart choice.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Can I just use a regular timer to turn the freezer on and off?
No, a regular timer won’t work correctly. A timer just turns power on and off at set times. It doesn’t know the temperature inside. You need a temperature controller for freezer conversion. This device reads the actual temperature and turns the power on or off based on that reading. This keeps the temperature stable within a small range, which is needed for safe food storage in a fridge.
Will converting my freezer to a fridge damage it?
Generally, no. You are using the freezer’s cooling system, but having it run much less often and not work as hard to reach super low temperatures. The compressor will cycle on and off, which is normal operation, just less frequently than when freezing. Using a temperature controller with a compressor delay setting helps protect the motor. Many people have successfully used freezers as fridges for years without issues.
What is the best temperature setting for my converted freezer fridge?
A typical refrigerator temperature range is between 35°F and 40°F (1.7°C to 4.4°C). Setting your controller’s target temperature (F1) to around 38°F (3°C) is a good starting point. Then set the temperature difference (F2) to 2°F (1°C) or 3°F (1.5°C). This will keep the temperature between roughly 36°F and 40°F (2.8°C and 4.4°C), which is safe and effective for refrigeration. Monitor the temperature for a day or two to make sure it stays consistent.
Do I need to defrost my converted freezer fridge?
Much less often than when it was a freezer! Frost builds up from moisture in the air entering the unit and freezing. At fridge temperatures, ice does not form. Any moisture that gets in (from opening the door or humid air) will mostly condense as water, not freeze into solid ice. Make sure your seal is good to reduce moisture entry. You might see some condensation you need to wipe, but major defrosting like you would do for a freezer should be very rare.
How long does the conversion process take?
Gathering tools and parts might take some time depending on what you need to buy. The physical conversion itself – placing the sensor and wiring the controller (especially if using a pre-wired kit) – can often be done in an hour or two. After that, you need to plug it in and wait several hours (maybe up to 24 hours) for the temperature inside the large, insulated box to cool down and stabilize in the fridge range. Testing and making small adjustments might take another day. The actual work is quick, but letting the system settle takes time.
Conclusion
Turning a freezer into a fridge is a practical and smart project. It lets you use an existing appliance in a new, energy-efficient way. It’s much cheaper than buying a new fridge. Using a deep freezer as a fridge, especially, can save you a lot on your power bill over time due to its excellent insulation.
The key to this conversion is the external temperature controller. Devices like the STC-1000 freezer fridge controller or simple pre-wired freezer to fridge conversion kits make this process easy. They act as a freezer conversion thermostat, telling the freezer when to run its cooling system to maintain fridge temperatures.
Whether you choose to convert chest freezer to refrigerator or do an upright freezer to fridge conversion, the steps are similar. Place the sensor, wire the controller, set the temperature, and test. With basic tools and a little care, you can successfully complete this DIY freezer fridge project. You’ll gain extra, energy-saving cold storage perfect for drinks, extra groceries, or anything else that needs to be kept cool. Give it a try!