A typical refrigerator usually lasts about 10 to 20 years. Most standard models have an average refrigerator lifespan closer to 10-15 years, while high-end or built-in units often reach the higher end of that range, offering an expected refrigerator life of 15-20 years or even more with good care.
Refrigerators are essential appliances. They keep our food cold and safe. But like all machines, they don’t run forever. Knowing how long your fridge should last helps you plan. It helps you decide when to fix it or get a new one.
Image Source: www.coastappliances.ca
Figuring Out How Long Refrigerators Last
The lifespan of a fridge isn’t an exact number. It’s a range. Many things affect how long a specific fridge will keep running well.
Average Refrigerator Lifespan Numbers
Different types of fridges last different amounts of time.
- Standard Top-Freezer or Bottom-Freezer: These are very common. They often last 10 to 15 years.
- Side-by-Side Models: These tend to last around the same, 10 to 15 years.
- French Door Models: These are newer and more complex. Their lifespan is similar, often 10 to 15 years. Some might last a bit longer with great care.
- Built-In or Professional Models: These are designed to last longer. They are built with better parts. They can often last 15 to 20 years or even more.
- Compact or Mini Fridges: These might last less, perhaps only 5 to 10 years. They are not built as tough as full-size fridges.
These are just averages. Some fridges might fail sooner. Some might last much longer. Good care plays a big part.
Expected Refrigerator Life Factors
The expected refrigerator life depends on several things. The quality of the brand matters. How you use the fridge matters. Where it sits in your home matters. We will look at these factors closely.
Factors Affecting Fridge Lifespan
Many things can make a fridge last longer or shorter. Some are things you can control. Some are not.
Where You Put Your Fridge
Location is important.
- Heat: If the fridge is near a stove, oven, or in direct sunlight, it has to work harder. This extra work wears out the parts faster.
- Space: A fridge needs space around it for air to move. This air cools the parts that make the fridge cold (the condenser coils). If there isn’t enough space, it gets too hot. This shortens its life.
- Garage/Basement: Fridges in unheated or uncooled areas might struggle with big temperature changes. Very hot or very cold places are not good for them. It makes the compressor work too hard.
How You Use Your Fridge
How you treat your fridge matters a lot.
- Door Openings: Opening the door too often lets cold air out. Warm air gets in. The fridge has to work hard to cool down again. Keep the door closed as much as possible.
- Overfilling: Stuffing too much food inside can block airflow. Cold air can’t move around properly. This makes the fridge work harder to keep everything cold.
- Putting Hot Food Inside: Putting hot leftovers right into the fridge is bad. The fridge has to work hard to cool the hot food down. Let food cool on the counter first (but not for too long to stay safe).
Maintenance and Cleaning
This is one of the biggest factors affecting fridge lifespan. Regular cleaning and checks can add years to your fridge’s life.
- Cleaning Condenser Coils: These coils are often on the back or underneath the fridge. They release heat from the cooling process. If they are covered in dust and dirt, the fridge can’t release heat well. It overheats and works too hard. Cleaning them every 6-12 months is key.
- Checking Door Seals (Gaskets): The rubber seals around the door keep the cold air inside. If they are cracked, torn, or dirty, cold air leaks out. Warm air gets in. The fridge runs constantly. Check them often. Clean them with soapy water. Test them by closing the door on a piece of paper. If you can pull the paper out easily, the seal is bad.
- Defrosting (Manual Models): If you have a manual defrost freezer, letting ice build up too much makes it work harder. Defrost it when the ice gets about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick.
- Keeping it Level: A fridge should sit level on the floor. If it’s tilted, the door might not seal right. The cooling system might not work as well. Use a level and adjust the feet if needed.
Quality of the Fridge
The brand and model quality matter.
- Parts: Cheaper models might use lower quality parts. These parts might fail sooner.
- Design: Some designs are more reliable than others. Simple top-freezer models often have fewer problems than complex French door models with ice makers and water dispensers.
- Brand Reputation: Some brands are known for building more durable appliances. Doing research before buying helps.
Power Surges
Sudden spikes in electrical power can damage the fridge’s parts, especially the electronic controls. Using a surge protector can help protect your fridge, especially if you live in an area with frequent power issues.
Signs Your Fridge Is Failing
Your fridge will often give you clues when it’s starting to wear out. Pay attention to these signs your fridge is failing. Acting early might save it, or at least prepare you for buying a new one.
Temperature Problems
This is a major sign.
- Food Spoiling Quickly: If milk is souring before its date or fresh food goes bad fast, your fridge isn’t staying cold enough. This is a clear warning.
- Freezer Not Freezing: If items in the freezer feel soft or thawed, the freezer isn’t working right.
- Fridge Too Cold / Freezing Food: Sometimes the opposite happens. The fridge section freezes your vegetables. The thermostat might be broken.
Strange Noises
Fridges make some noise. The compressor hums. Ice makers drop ice. But new or loud noises are bad signs.
- Loud Hum or Buzz: A constant, loud noise from the compressor could mean it’s working too hard or starting to fail.
- Clicking or Ticking: These sounds might come from the relay switch trying to start the compressor. If it clicks and the compressor doesn’t start, the compressor might be bad.
- Rattling or Buzzing: This could be a fan hitting something or a loose part. While sometimes an easy fix, it can also point to motor problems.
Excessive Frost or Condensation
Frost inside the fridge section (not just the freezer) or a lot of water droplets (condensation) on the inside walls are problems.
- Frost in the Fridge Section: This shouldn’t happen in modern fridges with auto-defrost. It means the defrost system isn’t working, or warm air is getting in (bad door seal).
- Lots of Inside Condensation: Water on the walls or ceiling points to warm, moist air getting in. Again, check the door seals. If seals are fine, there might be a drainage issue or temperature control problem.
Fridge Body Feels Hot
It’s normal for the sides or back of the fridge to feel warm sometimes. This is the heat leaving the system. But if they feel very hot to the touch constantly, the fridge is working too hard. This might be due to dirty coils or a failing part.
Running Constantly
A fridge cycles on and off. It runs to cool down, then rests. If your fridge seems to run all the time without stopping, it’s struggling to stay cool. This uses a lot of energy and wears out the parts fast.
Higher Energy Bills
An old or failing fridge uses more electricity than it should. If your power bill goes up for no clear reason, check your fridge. An inefficient fridge is costing you money.
Water Leaks
Puddles of water inside the fridge or on the floor outside can mean several things.
- Clogged Drain Line: The defrost water normally goes down a drain tube and evaporates. If this tube gets blocked, water backs up and leaks.
- Failing Water Dispenser/Ice Maker Line: Leaks can come from the water supply line or parts inside the door.
- Excessive Condensation: As mentioned, too much condensation can lead to puddles.
These signs your fridge is failing tell you that its good days might be ending. It’s time to think about what comes next.
Learning Your Fridge’s Age
To know if your fridge is nearing the end of its expected refrigerator life, you need to know how old it is. This is often easier than you think.
Checking the Serial Plate
Every major appliance has a serial number and often a model number. These numbers are on a small plate or sticker. This plate is usually inside the fridge. Look on the walls, near the door hinges, or on the ceiling of the fridge or freezer section. Sometimes it’s on the kick plate at the bottom front.
The serial number often contains codes that tell you the date it was made. The system for these codes is different for every brand.
- Look for the Manufacturing Date: Some plates plainly state “Mfg Date:” followed by month and year (e.g., 05/14 for May 2014).
- Decoding the Serial Number: If there’s no clear date, the serial number holds the key.
- Often, two or three digits in the serial number represent the year and sometimes the month. For example, a serial number like J 14 12345 might mean it was made in 2014. A number like AB 03 15 6789 might mean the 3rd month (March) of 2015.
- You might need to look up how a specific brand codes its serial numbers. A quick web search for “[Brand Name] refrigerator serial number age” can often help.
- Some brands use a letter for the year (A=2000, B=2001, etc. or A=2010, B=2011, etc. – it resets every decade or so). Then numbers for the week or month.
Knowing the refrigerator age indicator helps you judge its remaining life and guides the repair or replace fridge decision.
Typical Refrigerator Warranty
When you buy a new fridge, it comes with a warranty. This is the manufacturer’s promise to fix problems within a certain time. Knowing the typical refrigerator warranty helps set expectations for repairs, especially when the fridge is young.
Standard Manufacturer Warranty
Most fridges come with a standard one-year warranty.
- 1 Year Parts and Labor: This covers defects in materials and workmanship for the first year. If something breaks that isn’t your fault, the company will usually pay for the part and the person to fix it.
Sealed System Warranty
Beyond the first year, many manufacturers offer a longer warranty on the “sealed system”.
- 5 Years Sealed System: The sealed system includes the compressor, evaporator, condenser, dryer, and connecting tubing. These are the core parts that make the fridge cool. Problems with these parts are often major and expensive. This longer warranty (usually 5 years) covers the parts but often not the labor after the first year. This means you might get the part for free, but you pay the technician to install it.
Extended Warranties
You are often offered a chance to buy an extended warranty when you buy a fridge. These cost extra money.
- What They Cover: Extended warranties provide coverage beyond the standard warranty period. They might cover more parts or extend the parts and labor coverage for several years (e.g., 3-5 years total).
- Are They Worth It? This is debated. Fridges are most likely to fail early (in the first year) or much later (when they are old). Problems between year 2 and year 5 with parts not in the sealed system are less common. If a major sealed system part fails within 5 years, the standard warranty covers the part. Consider the cost of the warranty versus the cost of a potential repair during the covered period. For a high-end fridge with expensive electronic parts, it might be worth considering. For a basic model, maybe not.
Knowing the typical refrigerator warranty helps you understand what you might pay for repairs, especially in the first few years.
Repair or Replace Fridge Decision
One of the toughest questions is whether to fix your old fridge or buy a new one. The repair or replace fridge decision depends on several factors.
Age of the Fridge
This is often the first thing to consider. Use the refrigerator age indicator you found.
- Young Fridge (Under 5-7 years): If a fridge this young has a problem, it’s usually worth repairing. It should have many years of life left. Repairs are generally cheaper than buying new. Check the warranty first!
- Mid-Life Fridge (7-12 years): This is where the decision gets harder. A repair might be worthwhile if it’s a minor, inexpensive fix (like a faulty seal, a defrost sensor, or a fan motor). If the repair is expensive or the fridge has had other problems, replacing might be better.
- Old Fridge (Over 12-15 years): If your fridge is this old and needs a major repair (like the compressor, evaporator, or control board), it’s usually not worth fixing. These parts are expensive. An old fridge is also less energy efficient. More parts are likely to fail soon. This is often the time when to replace refrigerator.
Cost of the Repair
Get an estimate for the repair.
- Compare Repair Cost to Replacement Cost: A common rule of thumb is: if the repair cost is more than 50% of the cost of a new, similar fridge, it’s probably better to replace it. For example, if a new fridge costs $800, and the repair is $500, replacing might be the smarter choice.
- Major Parts are Expensive: Compressor repairs can cost $300-$600 or more. Main control boards can cost $200-$400 or more just for the part. These major repairs on an old fridge are rarely a good investment.
- Minor Parts are Cheaper: A new door seal might be $50-$200. A new fan motor might be $100-$300. These are more likely to be worth doing.
Frequency of Repairs
Has your fridge needed fixing before?
- One-Time Problem: If this is the first time your fridge has needed a repair, especially for a known issue with that model, fixing it might be fine.
- Ongoing Issues: If your fridge has needed several repairs in the past year or two, it’s a sign that parts are wearing out. More problems are likely coming. It’s a money pit. Time to replace.
Energy Efficiency
Older fridges use much more electricity than new ones.
- Save Money Over Time: A new ENERGY STAR certified fridge can use 20% less energy than a standard new model and much less than a 15-year-old fridge. The money you save on electricity bills over a few years could add up. This saving helps offset the refrigerator replacement cost.
- Environmental Impact: Using less energy is also better for the environment.
Features
New fridges offer features older models might not have.
- Modern Features: Adjustable shelves, better lighting, different temperature zones, smart features, and improved ice/water dispensers might make a new fridge more convenient.
- Match Your Needs: If your needs have changed (e.g., you need more space, or want an ice maker), replacing allows you to get a fridge that fits your current life.
Summary Table: Repair vs. Replace
Here is a simple table to help you weigh the decision:
| Condition | Age | Repair Cost | Repair History | Energy Usage | Recommendation |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Minor issue | Under 7 yrs | Low (under 25% new cost) | First issue | Moderate | Repair |
| Major issue | Under 5 yrs | Moderate (25-50% new cost) | First issue | Moderate | Repair (check warranty) |
| Minor issue | 7-12 yrs | Low (under 25% new cost) | Few previous issues | Moderate/High | Repair |
| Major issue | 7-12 yrs | High (over 50% new cost) | Few previous issues | High | Consider Replacing |
| Any significant issue | Over 12 yrs | Any significant cost (>20%) | Any previous issues | Very High | Likely Replace |
| Frequent issues | Any age | Any cost | Many previous issues | High | Replace |
Deciding when to replace refrigerator isn’t just about fixing the current problem. It’s about the fridge’s overall health, its age, and how much it costs you to run it.
Refrigerator Replacement Cost
If you decide to replace your fridge, knowing the cost helps you budget. The refrigerator replacement cost varies a lot.
Factors Affecting Replacement Cost
Several things change the price you pay for a new fridge.
- Type of Fridge:
- Top-Freezer: $600 – $1500
- Bottom-Freezer: $800 – $2000
- Side-by-Side: $1000 – $2500
- French Door: $1500 – $3000+
- Built-In/Professional: $3000 – $10,000+ or more
- Size and Capacity: Larger fridges cost more.
- Brand: Premium brands cost more than budget brands.
- Features: Ice makers, water dispensers, smart features, special finishes (like smudge-proof stainless steel) add to the price.
- Energy Efficiency: ENERGY STAR models might cost a bit more upfront, but save money later on bills.
- Delivery and Installation: Some stores include basic delivery. Hooking up water lines for ice makers or built-in units might cost extra. Removing your old fridge often has a fee ($50-$100).
Budgeting for a New Fridge
Think about:
- Your Budget: How much can you comfortably spend?
- Your Needs: What size and type do you need? Do you really need an ice maker or smart features?
- Long-Term Costs: Consider the energy savings of a new, efficient model. A cheaper old model could cost more in electricity over its life.
The total refrigerator replacement cost is the price of the fridge plus any delivery, installation, or old unit removal fees.
Extend Refrigerator Life Tips
Want your fridge to last closer to 15 or 20 years? Good care is key! Here are practical extend refrigerator life tips.
Clean the Condenser Coils Regularly
This is perhaps the most important tip.
- How Often: Do this every 6 to 12 months. More often if you have pets that shed a lot of hair, as pet hair loves to collect on coils.
- How To:
- Unplug the fridge first! Safety is first.
- Locate the coils. They are usually behind a grill at the bottom front or on the back of the fridge.
- Use a vacuum cleaner with a brush attachment or a special long, skinny coil brush (available at appliance stores) to remove dust, dirt, and pet hair.
- Be gentle so you don’t bend the delicate fins.
- Plug the fridge back in when done.
Clean coils let heat escape properly. The fridge runs more efficiently and doesn’t work as hard. This saves energy and prevents parts from wearing out too fast.
Check and Clean Door Seals
Good seals keep cold air in and warm air out.
- How Often: Check them monthly. Clean them every few months.
- How To:
- Check for cracks or tears. If they are bad, they need replacing.
- Clean the seals with mild soap and water. Food spills and sticky residues prevent a good seal. Dry them well.
- Test the seal: Close the door on a dollar bill or a piece of paper. If you can pull it out easily, the seal is weak. Try cleaning it well first. If it’s still weak, it might need replacing.
Replacing a bad door seal is a simple fix that can save a struggling fridge.
Set the Right Temperature
Keeping the temperature correct is important for food safety and fridge health.
- Recommended Temps: The fridge section should be between 35°F and 40°F (1.7°C to 4.4°C). The freezer should be at 0°F (-18°C).
- Why It Helps: Setting the temperature too low makes the fridge work harder than needed. This wears out parts. Use a fridge thermometer to check the actual temperature, as the dial settings can be off.
Don’t Overload Your Fridge
Air needs to flow inside.
- Proper Airflow: Don’t pack food so tightly that air can’t move. Leave space between items. Cold air circulation is needed to keep everything uniformly cold.
- Don’t Put Hot Food Inside: Let hot food cool down first before storing it.
Give Your Fridge Space
Make sure there’s enough room around the fridge.
- Clearances: Follow the manufacturer’s recommendation for space behind, on the sides, and above the fridge. Usually, 1-2 inches on the sides and back and a bit more on top is enough. This allows air to circulate around the condenser.
Keep it Level
Use a level to check if your fridge is sitting straight.
- Adjust Feet: Most fridges have adjustable feet or rollers. Adjust them so the fridge is level and stable. This helps the door seal properly and helps the cooling system work right.
Clean Up Spills Quickly
Spills can cause odors, attract pests, and even get into parts they shouldn’t. Clean them up right away.
Defrost Manual-Defrost Freezers
If you have an older fridge with a manual defrost freezer, don’t let frost build up.
- When to Defrost: Defrost when the frost is about 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick.
- Why: Heavy frost makes the freezer work much harder and reduces usable space.
- How To: Empty the freezer. Unplug the unit. Leave the door open and put towels down to catch water. You can speed it up by putting a fan near it or bowls of hot water inside (be careful not to damage the interior). Never use sharp objects to chip ice. Clean and dry the interior before plugging it back in and returning food.
Following these extend refrigerator life tips can significantly increase the average refrigerator lifespan and save you money on repairs and energy bills.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
How can I tell exactly how old my fridge is?
Look for the serial number plate inside the fridge or on the back. Find the manufacturing date or decode the serial number using the brand’s online guides. This acts as your refrigerator age indicator.
Is it cheaper to repair an old fridge or buy a new one?
For old fridges (over 10-12 years) needing major repairs, buying new is usually cheaper in the long run. New fridges are more energy-efficient, saving you money on electricity over time. For younger fridges with minor issues, repair is often the better choice. Consider the repair or replace fridge decision based on age, repair cost vs. new cost, and frequency of problems.
What are the most common reasons a fridge stops working?
Common problems include issues with the sealed system (compressor, refrigerant leaks), failing fans (evaporator or condenser fan), defrost system problems (leading to ice buildup), or faulty electronic control boards.
How much does a new refrigerator cost?
The refrigerator replacement cost varies widely, from $600 for basic top-freezer models to $3000+ for large French door or high-end built-in models.
How long does a refrigerator warranty usually last?
The typical refrigerator warranty is one year for parts and labor. Many brands offer a longer warranty (often 5 years) on the sealed cooling system parts, but usually only cover the parts themselves after the first year, not the labor.
Does cleaning the coils really help?
Yes, cleaning the condenser coils is one of the most effective extend refrigerator life tips. Dirty coils make the fridge work harder, use more energy, and can lead to premature part failure. Clean coils help the fridge run cool and efficiently.
My fridge is making a strange noise. Is it failing?
Strange or loud noises can be a sign your fridge is failing. It could be a failing fan motor, a struggling compressor, or other issues. It’s best to investigate unusual noises or call a technician if you can’t identify the source.
When should I absolutely replace my refrigerator instead of repairing it?
You should likely replace it when to replace refrigerator if it’s over 12-15 years old and needs a major repair, if the repair cost is more than half the cost of a new one, or if it’s been having frequent problems.
Do different brands have different lifespans?
Yes, quality varies by brand and model. High-end brands often use more durable parts and may have a longer expected refrigerator life than budget brands. Researching reliability ratings for specific models is a good idea before buying.
Can I extend my refrigerator’s lifespan by unplugging it on vacation?
For short trips (a week or two), it’s usually better to leave the fridge running, perhaps slightly increasing the temperature setting to save a little energy. Unplugging requires emptying it completely to avoid mold and odor, and then the fridge has to work hard to cool down when you return. For very long absences (months), emptying, cleaning, unplugging, and leaving the doors propped open (to prevent mold) is the recommended approach.
By understanding the average refrigerator lifespan, recognizing the signs your fridge is failing, considering the factors affecting fridge lifespan, and following extend refrigerator life tips, you can make smart choices about maintaining and eventually replacing your appliance.